A final Pisco Sour

What a whirlwind of a visit to Peru.... we had time to reflect today on what our previous thoughts were to the realities we have seen in this country. Not expected was the "Americanization" or I suppose "globalization" we witnessed... MacDonalds, KFC, Domino's and even Tony Roma's has reached perhaps every corner of the planet.  Technology like cell phones has been embraced in the same way as home, and is perhaps even more accessible with cheaper service and better coverage than Canada.  While problems with political stability seem in the background, they are not far from memory... super-inflation and a civil war is in recent memory yet the people seem confident in the current system, and are building and investing in themselves and their new system.  The history of Peru is rich, and the future is, it seems, positive.
One last visit today to a pier-perched restaurant in Miraflores, where a fortune-telling monkey entertained passer-by's... don't see that everyday!  We watched the crabs scramble across the rocks and the boobies rest only a pinch away.  The waves were smaller today, so the beginning surfers were out practicing new skills as they prepare for summer (the water is brown and foamy and smells like, well, a good incentive to stay on the board).  We toasted (a Pisco sour and a cervesa, 4 Inca colas for the road) our last day in Peru... tomorrow an overnight flight to Europe via Bogota, Columbia.

Special shout out to Elizabeth, and the awesome staff at 3B Barranco, who made Lima our home base.  You are welcoming, friendly and very good at making visitors feel completely at home!  Gracias!!!

LarcoMar, Miraflores Starbucks

starbucks, in lima! next best to timmys...

Same day, more adventure

Following seaside lunch, the second part of our day was even more an adrenaline rush.  A half hour south, we passed through Ica to the natural sand dune formations, towering mountains of sand of Huan.... (sp?) and a desert Oasis below.  On board our 9-person "buggy" (say " boo-gey" for true effect), we climbed up and over and around the hills and valleys at warp-speed - YAHHOOO! Great fun.  Atop the first "small" hill, we took out the sand boards, and had a go at sliding to the bottom... Katie loved it, and Derek tried it snow-board style, zip zip down the 70 degree slope to the bottom, and back up again (harder to climb sand than snow).

Back in the buggy, off and over to the next slope, this one higher and steeper than the first, everyone down again, until a slight mishap and I took my board in the head.... Jack and Jill went up the hill, Jill fell down and , well, the rest involved a quick trip back into Ica to the nearest clinic where Fabrizio, aghast at the price of stitches, shooed us back to the parking lot and with all the medical instruments and supplies in hand was able to fix me right up there in the street.... CLASSIC!  A parading funeral procession went by, with horns and cars and tuk-tuk taxis, and school kids, and yes, us in the minivan-cum-surgical unit, fixed again and heading back to the dunes to finish the second half of the ride.  Unfortunately, we were too long and lost our buggy,  so had to settle for a boat-ride in the oasis and then lunch at Katie's favorite, Rorky's, for bbq chicken and a climb in the play-place ball-pit (for her, anyway).  Only a slight headache, no concussion thankfully, and a long trip back into Lima to wash off all that sand.... honestly, what a fun day, but I think I prefer tobogganing (cold, yes, but snow melts)

Islas Ballistas, Peru's Galapagos reserve

This is a must-see on any trip to Peru.  When we first started planning our trip, the Galapagos Islands were high on our list, but the cost was very prohibitive.  Located off Equador, and only reached by air and boat, there were restrictions on age (older than Katie) for most tours, and a high price tag for a group of 6 - well over $10G for most 5 day tours.... plus the extra time.  A good alternative in the guide books was Peru's "poor man's Galapagos", which honestly was perfect for our family - a day trip south of Lima and a taste of the wildlife unique to this area.... and truly 3 hours of bird poop was lots for this crew!
After an early start again with Rosita, and our awesome guide from our first day in Lima, Fabrizio, we headed south by 6 am for a VERY eventful day.  The area of Paracas 3 hours south of Lima was hit by a major earthquake in 2007, but the tourist facilities have been rebuilt in an effort to attract visitors and support the local economy.  Our 30-man motorboat was led by a bi-lingual Naturalist guide, and cost roughly 50 soles (less than $20 each).  The waters were calm, and the trip to the islands very enjoyable on the warm, sunny day.  There we saw colonies of Sea Lions, local penguins, and nesting cormorants - like, 200,000 of them!  And yes, holy guano, Batman, the island does STINK!  The refuge is basically a giant volcanic island, with caves and arches, and reminants of past bird-poop-harvest still evident (no longer actively mined, this resource was very valuable as a fertilizer for a couple hundred of years, more valuable at the time than gold, and even led to the "guano" wars with Spain and neighboring Chile... $75/kilo... drove the Peruvian economy in the 1700-1800's...

Punta Hermosa y Playa

A day at the beach in order for this crew, so Thursday we hired our sweet Rosita (Nascar road racer extraordinaire) to command her minivan 45 minutes south of the city to the summer resort of Hermosa.  It is late Spring in Peru in November, so few locals venture to brave the chilly waters, but to these Canucks it is plenty warm for a dip in the ocean.  The sky cleared by 11 am, and under a warm Southern sky we played in the waves and sand and surf.

Lunch was seafood, freshly caught in the quiet bay we overlooked during our meal, and cold cervasa and Inca cola for the ninos, along with slow-roasted corn and fresh avocado.  Katie is getting her fill of calamari, soft and tasty.  You can't beat a seaside dinner, watching the surfers from the point restaurant - a million dollar view anywhere, here in Peru.

Happily Back at Sea Level

After a trip to downtown Cusco and the Star Peru airline offices, we were able to change flights and return to the metropolis of Lima, and our ocean-view abode.  Whew.   Everyone is feeling well again, after a 15 hour-or-so night of rest (insomnia is cured) and appetites have returned.  Rick is creditting his Viking roots for his preference of the sea.  And the rest of our trek will most certainly be not far from a beach... Amen.

Today we saw another side of Peru.  Off to upscale Miraflores and the JW Marriott, the fanciest hotel in Lima, and casino, Vegas-style.  My brother Aaron and his wife Tania have a connection there for us, a family they know who have moved from Grand Cayman.  We left a message and hope to meet them before we leave.  Then we were greeted by a screaming crowd of teenage girls waiting for the rock band "Tokio" something.. (anyone heard of them? a German boy-band with MTV awards?) Apparently, they are holding a concert here tonight. Across from the hotel is an up-scale mall built into the side of the ocean-side cliff, complete with bowling alleys, chain restaurants (Tony Roma's, Starbucks, Dunkin Donuts...) and a cineplex, so yes! Kids got to see Harry Potter in English with Spanish subtitles...  ex-large popcorn and pop, plus movie for 18 soles (6 bucks) each - Derek got his pop for free (!).  And the theater was empty (the 6 of us, plus 4 other people) for the matinee show.  Perfecto! 

After an American meal and a show, it was easy to forget where we were, until we emerged and were approached by 2 young moms holding infants, begging for money to feed their children.  Along the street there are old, banged up cars mixed in with Porches and BMW's, and mini-busses crammed with 60 or so people inside.  There are shiny, glass buildings next to piles of rubble and rebar.  And noise:  constant honking as impatient drivers switch from lane to lane to lane, and then up on the sidewalk!  Driving here is truly crazy, even with police whistling on every corner and pedestrians dodging between cars.  Dogs running everywhere, some on leash but most without.  And EVERYONE, young, old, rich, not-so-rich, tourist, local, even the lady in traditional Inca dress, talking and texting on a cell.  Definately:  Loco.

Titicaca a "no-no"

Well, after yesterday's return to the 11,100 ft altitude, and the return of malaise by the majority of the group, Rick and I have decided to re-route and head back to sea level - Katie also can't wait to swim.  Dad and Betty caught a bus tour at 7am to head up to Puno, which is the entry to the "world's highest navigable lake", resting on the border of Peru and Bolivia.  It has been inhabitated by various indiginous groups for over 4000 years, and is the oldest center of agicultural practice in the "New World", but alas at 12,500 feet above sea level (or more?) this younger part of the family did not want to climb any further up hill..... back to the sea, Billy! for us.  In this case, the grandparents have won!

Jaclyn's fever broke during the night, but she is still not up to snuff, and the altitude is not great for Rick.  Travis seems to have recovered fully from his flu, though headache and a general feeling of "unwell" combined by insomnia (is it the altitude, the barking dogs, the horns all night long, the upset belly, or the "what if's" keeping us awake?) plagues us all.  Katie is the only one seeming unfazed, and Derek is just hungry.... This morning with the help of very friendly Cusi Wasi staff, we were able to change our flights to go instead back to Lima, skipping out the high altitude and the jungle.  We were also able to find a restaurant that served all-day American style breakfast (pancakes and maple syrup!) which calmed everyone's stomach, including Jaclyn.  Today will be a quiet day of rest, and tomorrow we head back down to the coast, where sea breezes can replace this high mountain air.  I don't see Mount Everest in anyone's future.  Except maybe Derek...

Speaking of Derek, it should come to no one's surprise that he is loving the bargaining shopping experience here.  If we need anything at all, he seems to be able to negotiate the best prices in both stores and at the markets.  His Spanish is coming along quite nicely too, as he can read the menus and talk prices, barter for lower cost and seem to come away with exactly the items he wanted.... quite the gift that boy has.  Si, gracias y por favor!